Sunday, July 11, 2010

Ayutthaya Ruins and Bai Pai Cooking Class

Fun Fact: Instead of "lol", a lot of people in Thailand use "555" instead. Five is pronounced "ha" in Thai.

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This Saturday we had an outing to a series of ruins at Ayutthaya which was the old capital of Thailand around 1350. There are a lot of temples and shrines out this way today and it's not too far from Bangkok to go see it in a day. More on the history of Ayutthaya.


Many of the structures still standing are very impressive. Even though 'tourist season' doesn't start until our winter, there are plenty of visitors.


This particular trip was planned by ThaiREU students and not by the grad students. It went very well and we were able to keep on schedule and get back at a reasonable time.

You can find a lot of Buddha statues in this area:


There's also a lot of monks at all these sites. At one place they took pictures with some of the REU students. A group of Thai students stopped to take pictures with all of us hanging out at the ruins.

In some areas of Ayutthaya, raiders from long ago cut off the heads of some of these statues. Later in the day we found one place which had rows of these statues all along the main wall. They were missing heads and limbs or were even completely cut in half.

People who go to these sites will often leave little statues which have also had their heads broken off. There area also a lot of warning signs that tell people to not climb on the statues.

Some of these places were hit or miss as far as being interesting. The last stop of the day was probably the best. We got to climb this giant set of stairs up to a very narrow and high up landing within one of the stone ruins. Just inside the entryway were tons of bats up above.


It's neat to see how long these places have lasted. It was a very good day for sight-seeing and the next day it ended up raining a lot. As the sun started to go down the last place we visited looked pretty cool:














Along the way, I bought two coconut drinks which were all good. I bought a couple snack food items but they weren't really that tasty to me. The markets that develop around these religious sites are pretty diverse. You'll see all sorts of cool stuff and there's tons of food. However some of the food is only suited to people with particular tastes.













Outside one of the temple places I bought a pretty sweet sword. It was half the price of the ones at Chatuchak and has pretty solid construction. It can just barely fit in my luggage. The table I bought it at also had a wide assortment of really sharp things. I've always wanted to get a sword so I bought it and it was pretty cheap.



























So that was pretty much Saturday's trip. The pics are publicly up on Facebook here (part 1) and here (part 2). At one place, there were tons of bells outside the temple (which had a huge golden Buddha) and I was able to get some video of them ringing:


On Sunday we woke up early to go the Bai Pai Thai Cooking School in order to learn how to prepare several dishes. This was a lot of fun and we got to make things like pad thai, soup, and everything for a full course dinner. The instructors were very interesting and they had their presentation down.































The lessons alternated between watching the instructors prepare the dish first, getting to sample it, and then making it for ourselves. Overall, we were able to make everything edible. While still in Thailand we could certainly make these dishes again but in the US it might be rather difficult to find all the right ingredients. There is usually a more common substitute, however. Aside from making pad thai, the fish cakes were my favorite. The lessons were 1800 baht, but the ThaiREU program is going to refund us.

Pad Thai I made:













Pad thai is simple to make but it has a lot of ingredients and throwing them all together in the right order and at the right time can be a bit overwhelming.

All in all, this weekend was pretty sweet. Next weekend is a graduate student planned trip on the river. We'll be sleeping on rafts I hear.

Picture of our motley crew:














View from climbing to the top of one of the ruins (click to enhance):

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Research

Fun Fact: The Thai calendar is based on the arrival of Buddha, about 543 BC. So the year here is written as 2553 or sometimes '53.

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For the last two weeks or so I've been doing research at Mahidol University. The group I'm in does a lot of work with nanoparticles. I'm working on that too. Gold nanoparticles, little clusters of gold atoms, have some very interesting properties depending on how small they get or what shape they end up in. While the study of nanoparticles and nanomaterials has only recently started, their use (intentional or not) dates back hundreds of years and in some cases, thousands. I found the story about red stained glass windows while looking up some background information for the presentations I have to give as part of the ThaiREU program. Depending on the shape of the nanoparticle (nanorods, I think), you can get other colors as well. And different research groups have been able to create all sorts of cubes, rods, spheres, prisms, wires, and tubes. Things like nanoscale tubes have tensile strengths greater than spider silk or even steel. They also have unique electrical properties.

These sorts of passive materials that do things just by sitting around are very interesting to me. Yet the idea of a carbon nanotube space elevator is a little ridiculous...


I'll have pictures of Chatuchak and some of Mahidol campus up soon.

Saturday, July 3, 2010

Chatuchak Market

Fun Facts: There are several day-to-day differences between going around Thailand vs. America, of course.

1) Probably one of the first that I found was that people carry around their own tissues - tissues being a combination of napkin/facial tissues/toilet paper/etc.. Restaurants and bathrooms generally don't carry their own supply. This can become an issue for some. At lunch I usually have a lot of spicy food and it makes my nose run but I tend to forget to bring around tissues. Fancy places or conventions that I've been to usually have them available in some limited way as well as hotels and places tourists would stay. You can buy large packs, usually with some kind of cartoon characters on it or some decorations and it should last a while. Paper towels in bathrooms are pretty scarce. You might find tissue for sale in machines (3 baht), an air dryer, or what's probably a pretty nasty thing that just using a long rotating towel.

2) Utensils in Thailand are primary forks and spoons. Fork in the left and spoon in the right, depending on your handedness. You use the fork to prepare food into the spoon and eat it with the spoon. Eating noodles this way becomes less messy, actually. Chopsticks are also available in noodle places and can replace the fork or both fork and spoon sometimes. For lunch with the research group one day we went to a fancy hotel with the standard fancy restaurant silverware setup and I was pretty confused. I felt more out of place in that hotel than being several thousands miles away from home. This hotel was pretty interesting as it's well-hidden and where all the politicians go to avoid being seen. My professor pointed out one of the gentlemen behind me was part of some large company.

3) Going around Bangkok I haven't been able to find many garbage cans. I've had to walk several blocks before I could find a can to throw away cups/etc. With the street vendors selling food and drink everywhere you can end up with a ton of trash in your hands and pockets. One time I ended up waiting to get to the sky train station before I could toss out my trash. Despite this the streets are very clean. There's a crew of street sweepers that use straw brooms and long woven baskets to clean the streets. Sometimes a street sweeping vehicle will come by. With nine million people in Bangkok, it's rather clean. Pollution still seems to be a problem and today we saw a bus which was covered in soot and pouring out dark smoke from its exhaust.

4) Thais use a lot of spice and sugar in their food. Entrees are very good but adapting to the very sweet deserts has been difficult - they just don't have the same variety as Thai dishes. These deserts usually have coconut or fruit with flour and sugar. They can be wrapped in banana leaves (krathong, when they didn't have plates back in the day) or packaged up in boxes or bags. The squishy white coconut things are way too sweet for me. One of my favorite deserts though, depending on how it's made, are these gelatin covered green-pea-filled 'candies' which are often painted to look like fruit or different shapes. The fruit ones are amazingly convincing. Some of these are too sweet though. Apparently Thai people don't like very sour things. The cafeteria has two juice bars with far more exotic fruits than you could think of without a botany degree (for 6 baht a cup) and I ended up ordering what I was told would be very sour but it was pretty mild. Spicy, salty, and sweet are dominant flavors here. It's hard to find American style salt and pepper; you can find fish sauce or spicy vinegar and chili powder.

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We just got back from Chatuchak Weekend Market, which I'm told is the world's largest outdoor market. It's only a short bus ride from CRI where we're staying. You can find pretty much anything here. A lot of nice traditional stuff, things from other countries, and also some things you'd find in a Spencer's Gifts... There's a lot to see here. I was able to explore some of it on my own and found what has been called 'Pet Land' where you can buy rabbits, dogs, cats, and more. I didn't ask how much because then they'd be obligated to try and sell one to me. The animals are all in good shape from what I see; they're fed, have plenty of room to move about, and look healthy but I wouldn't be surprised if I was told otherwise. I even saw one vendor grooming a few dogs (you'll only find puppies and kittens, actually). They do try to crack down on poaching and selling of exotic animals so you probably won't find ivory or tigers and such. I have heard from someone in another group that you can find more exotic pets for purchase if you look harder here.

I did see a lot of Brits (I don't know if they were going to buy a dog or something) and some French and German people around. There's also a lot of people from China. Everyone is pretty friendly but it's the tourists that tend to be rude. I can see being a little rushed, feeling overwhelmed and then forgetting your manners if you're just here for a week, but I'm here for two months so I try to be as easy-going and polite as I can. Public transport is pretty cheap so you can always come back later.

I found a place that sells swords starting at 1500 baht, which was lowered to 1300 baht (31-32 baht = $1; Google says 32.4 but good luck with that). A lot of people like to look at them but I doubt the store moves a lot of them. Among their selection are small katanas, Chinese longswords, and something like a small claymore. I'd like to get one, but then comes the issue of getting to CRI via bus/taxi, then the plane, etc. And for 1300 baht that's about what you could get it for at some places in the USA. From my own research in the past it seems like any sword worth buying is an 'investment' rather than a casual purchase. There's also a few antique places with scimitars going for 4000 baht and up.

I did get to practice using Thai numbers. If they don't speak too fast I can do basic purchases all in Thai. If you buy things in sets you've got a better chance of some discount (usually just rounding it down to the nearest ten or twenty baht). Many of the things are marketed as at sale price, so it's hard to ask for a discount. Most numbers are written in Arabic but they also have Thai characters for 1-9. As I've said before, they do have calculators so you can see the final price. Bringing along your own might impress a vendor if you seem like you know what you're doing (I might try it some time). I ended up spending about 1900 baht, $60, on about as much stuff as I could carry. If your in the search of t-shirts, know that sizes are much smaller here. I'm somewhere between a medium/large (once squeezed into a small) and 34 waist (little baggy) but here I'm like an XXXL in pants and just barely a large. For a t-shirt, you shouldn't really be paying more than 99 baht for a basic one, 120 for something cool, and maybe like 140 for a soccer jersey (World Cup is big here, but Thailands team didn't make it in; a lot of the high school kids are out doing surveys with English speakers as an assignment). But if you want it, get it. You'd be paying 320 baht ($10) or more like 480 back home. You can also get some pretty good deals on bulk t-shirts, and I think someone in our group got like three basic t-shirts for the price of two. Denim jeans, however, are pretty expensive here and are found in the fancy malls for $60 or up.

For day trips and simply going around town, I use a drawstring bag. It has a lighter profile and is better for going through crowds. If you keep a water bottle in it it'll keep your back cool. You can also ball it up and stash it however you like when it's empty. And if you lose them they're pretty cheap (I've gotten all of time for free from my university). You'll also sweat into anything you've got on your back so keep that in mind. At this point I don't seem to be sweating salts or anything but more like just water in itself. A backpack would be good from bringing along clothes. We haven't had any trouble with theft but I still do a pocket-check every couple minutes or so. As for clothes, I've been sticking to t-shirts and shorts as much as possible. Sandals are nice for not having your feet sweat - and everyone seems to where them, even on motorcycles. Polo and jeans are fine for going around the university (Mahidol). People at CRI have to wear slacks/skirts and nice shirts as the princess sort of presides over it.

We were only at the market from 10am to about 3pm today. We've got a cultural show to go to, and even perform at, tonight. Apparently several colleges have teams competing like in a talent show. I think CRI won last yet. We'll be doing 60 seconds of Thai dance that we kind of learned last Friday as well as some macarena at the end. It should be fun.

Yesterday, we gave our introductory presentations that detailed our previous research and some of our cultural background. After that we went out to eat at this great hidden noodle place. Pretty much everyone had ten bowls each (at 9 baht a bowl) for something like 200 bowls. The shop must have thousands of them because it sort of runs in a buffet style. They have a ton of noodle sizes and compositions which all have a different word. The noodles come with beef, pork, or vegetables. It was all really good. I added a bit of sugar and some chili powder to each.

Bangkok has also been a great place to get drinks on the street. Green tea is pretty big and I just had this black pearl green tea (it's like bubble tea) today. As a blueberry fan, I like that they've usually got a blueberry option. Plus, they have many more fruits than you can typically find in the US and at very cheap prices. Dragonfruit, longan, durian (hard to find, it's very smelly), mangosteen, mango, small bananas, coconuts (they grow all over), and more. They also use flowers like crystantheum and there was another that gave this light blue drink. With all this unique food, I haven't really been ill at all. My diet as certainly changed to something like 60% noodle and rice, 20% meat, 10% fruit, and 10% other. Everything is very light so it's easy to get hungry again.

The water/ice problem with foreign travel isn't as much an issue in Bangkok. The city overtreats the water so it's very chlorinated in some parts. I washed my face at a restauant and it kind of burned my eyes like in a pool. It seems like restaurants have a lot of bottled water and use that instead. When you do get a drink, they'll usually fill the cup with crushed ice and then add the drink. If you're worried about the quality of the ice you could just drink it quickly before the ice melts. The word for water is 'nom' and ice is 'nom kang' (something like "hard water", they use adjectives after nouns like in Spanish). Pepsi is pretty popular over here (it's doing a lot of World Cup promotions and I had some kind of orange ginger ale soda, Pepsi Cheer, as a sample on the way back from the market) and it's easy to order. Coke is also around but more in the stores than the restaurants.

I'll have pictures up later when I get time to go through and process them.

Wednesday, June 30, 2010

Second Weekend: Overnight Trip to Amphawa/Homestay

This weekend was the overnight trip to the Floating Market (Amphawa) as well as several other sites in the area. The Floating Market runs along a small river where small shops are set up inside buildings on either side. There's a few merchants on boats as well, however they're usually selling the same thing as the stores on the 'boardwalk'. The market is really crowded and it's mostly a matter of waiting for everyone in front of you to move before you can get anywhere. The riverside parts starts with crossing a bridge to and then leads to a bridge back to the other side. There's a lot of different foods and things on sale but here's one of the places that really had a big emphasis on t-shirts.

To get to Amphawa we took longtail boats.

Amphawa market from one of the bridges:

People everywhere:

You can buy these candies which are green pea stuff covered in a candy layer. It kind of feels like a chick pea with the mushy stuff surrounded by a rubbery coating. Like a lot of Thai desserts, these were really sweet. They come in a variety of shapes and many times they're made to imitate fruits (which are very realistic).

You can get three good sized dragonfruit (1 kg) for 25 baht. There's a white kind and a red kind. The red kind is the one with the meaner looking skin but it has a weaker flavor.




We visited something like an Asian Hall of Fame.


 On the overnight trip, we stayed in a traditional Thai house. Because the weather is always warm there aren't many walls separating the rooms. It's very open and exposed to the elements with a roof to keep it from getting rained on. The bedrooms were crowded, but air-conditioned, and we had something like twenty people on the trip.



 

We also went to Khaobin Cave.
 
There was a monkey hanging out outside. Haven't seen any elephants yet.
Food:

It's been interesting going to the markets or to get food. Usually if you need to speak with someone then they know whatever English you'd need to know for that transaction. I've been trying to learn bits of the Thai language but it's tonal (the same letters can be said differently to make different words) as well as written in a completely different script. This makes it difficult to order from a menu. The IT Mall has lots of pictures in its food courts which makes this easier but at the Mahidol canteen/cafeteria there's no pictures and everything is in the Thai script. However there are times when no one is speaking English and all you can do is smile. Smiling is important as most people around here are very friendly and willing to help. Getting frustrated and acting out would just be a display of one's lack of self-discipline which isn't going to get you anywhere. Smiles are almost understood universally across cultures.

Sweet Bus:
Feeding a millipede old fruit:

Amphawa Trip Photos

Friday, June 25, 2010

Day 3: Mahidol University

Fun Fact: The tuk-tuk are small three-wheeled motorcycles with something like a cab in back where up to four people can ride. One grad student said they managed to fit twelve people into the back of something like these:


Unlike a taxi, you negotiate the fare prior to leaving. This cost us 80 baht one time for four people and 70 baht for three. They go very fast and there's not much to hold on to. However, it's something you can't miss out on.

Motorcycle taxis are another option but they drive very fast and weave through Bangkok's endless traffic at rush hour. They get you where you want to go quickly but there's no defense against getting hit by a car.

Standard taxis are a good choice. The minimum fare is 35 baht for something like 1km and then 2 baht for every few fractions of a km later. Time in traffic may also add to the fare. We usually get something like an 80 baht fare, which is reasonable when split four or five ways. Be sure to make sure they use the meter or else the driver can claim a much higher fare when you get to your destination.

With any of these means of travel, you have the ask ahead of time about where you want to go because they may not be going as far as you'd like. Motorcycles and tuk-tuk seem to have home bases set up in different spots around the city to service different areas. Taxis also have their own normal routes.

In tourist spots, some tuk-tuk or taxi drivers may end up bringing you away from where you want to go in order to drop you off around stores and places they do business with. You have to go through several of these places before you can continue on. We haven't run into one of these traps yet and it doesn't seem likely out where we are. Drivers around popular spots will also try very hard to get you to use their service if you're walking around like you want to leave the area. It's okay to pass them by or simply refuse. They usually advertise prices to you in this manner; I'm not sure if these prices offered are discounted or not but you can also negotiate the cost beforehand while being sure to keep to the set price when you go to pay them.

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The first Monday was the first working day of the trip. The two of us working at Mahidol met our grad students at CRI in the morning and went through the route to get the university. It takes about one hour and involves one bus, the Sky Train, and then either another bus or walking. The buses are very crowded at rush hour and sometimes you're stuck where the doors open and close. You have to be careful about that because sometimes the doors will open while the bus is still slowing down (and moving at a considerable pace). A lot of the buses are air conditioned and cost 12 baht, but the open buses will only cost around 5 baht.

The university is a very interesting place with a lot to see. The lab I'm working in is very large and the group is both friendly and talented. I met with my professor to discuss the project and it seems very cool. I won't mention much about it on this blog. Mahidol University has several buildings/campuses around the city for things like Science, Dentistry, and so on. The Faculty of Science campus is very nice with a lot of green plants and impressive architecture. On the opposite side of the campus is the cafeteria where a lot of interesting foods and drinks are available. Apparently there is a market that opens in the center of campus on some Thursdays. (I missed the first one because I ended up being at the CRI conference later on that week.)

I don't have pictures of Mahidol yet.

Day 2: Grand Palace, Wat Pho

Fun Facts: The currency of Thailand is the baht. 31 to 32 baht is one dollar, or something like 27 or less if you go to the airport to exchange money. Fractions of a baht are called satang (like US cents). Most things cost at least 5 baht and I haven't used any satang yet; you get these little coins as change from grocery stores where they charge fractions of a baht. Denominations of baht go 1, 2, 5, and 10 as coins with 20, 50, 100, 500, and 1000 as bills. Some denominations of satang (I've only seen 25 and 50 so far) are smaller than dimes. When you get the bills, you can see that they are almost always in impeccable condition. This money has the king on it and he is very highly respected. Because of this, the money should always be handled with care as it would be disrespectful.

Food and other things are a lot less expensive in Thailand than the USA. You can get lunch/dinner for 30-45 baht and then a drink will be 10-15 baht. So that's about two dollars or less for a meal. Yet there are some places where food can be extremely expensive (fancy tourist places). Food courts are an interesting option as they allow you to go around and see a wide variety of options. At places like IT Square and the Central Mall, you put money on a card which you give to the people you get your food from. They subtract the value from the total and you can recover what's left when you leave the food court. You'll have to order from pictures placed around the storefronts. Once you've ordered, they cook it to order in front of you usually.

Street vendors are another popular option and you can't go far without running into one or a grouping of them. However, people traveling from outside the country should probably be sure to avoid certain foods or conditions as it could make them sick. I haven't had anything from the street vendors yet.

Another thing is that you can often bargain/haggle with vendors selling goods outside of established stores. It's fun and shouldn't be taken too aggressively. If you're a foreigner, you can probably get something down 10%. More if you can speak Thai or just some phrases (they seem to think it's cute or something), down to 25% off in one case. Usually just asking for a lower price will get you somewhere but in the end it's still really less expensive. Thai people get the most generous discounts. Most numbers are written in Arabic (0123456789) on signs and in shops but vendors will speak the numbers in Thai. I've learned to speak the numbers (it's a bit simpler format than English) yet vendors will also have calculators on hand to show you the price in a format you can understand. Since the labeled price will drop with haggling, the calculator provides a quick and concrete way of showing the new price.


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Day 2: On the day after resting up from the travel, we left early in the morning to tour numerous cultural sites around Bangkok. The first was the Grand Palace. It's a huge religious site that is maintained by the royalty and there are no monks living there. One part of the Thai culture is that every man is expected to become a monk for some period of their life. This can be a few weeks or much longer. The main temple of the Grand Palace houses the largest jade Buddha around, which is referred to as the Emerald Buddha. It is placed on top of a huge golden set-up inside a large room where people come to pray. Pictures weren't allowed inside. This statue is dressed for each of the three seasons in Thailand. There's also a whole tower covered in gold tiles and the building housing the Buddha is encrusted in what could be gem stones and more gold. Altogether this site took only three years to build a long time ago. There are also giant statues placed at the entrances; these are demons placed to fight off evils that would follow people into the site.

After the Grand Palace was Wat Pho, where the giant golden reposing Buddha statue is located. It's pretty big. On the opposite side of the statue near the exit are 108 bowls where those praying can drop a single coin into each one as they go along. 108 is the number of Auspicious Symbols in Buddhism. There's a station where one can exchange 20 baht for 108 coins. I'm not sure if these coins are satang (the Thai equivalent of cents) or some specialized coins. Afterward we stopped for lunch at a nice restaurant by the river.



Following this was the Vivanmek Mansion. It's a royal mansion built with teak wood about four kings ago. Since then, it has become a storage place and museum for gifts and other possessions of the Thai royalty. A lot of neat things are on display but cameras were forbidden. The tour was rather straightforward and showed off many collections of expensive things. Next door was the Arts of the Kingdom V exhibition of masterpieces to commemorate the elaborate gifts created to honor the king's birthday. Each one took months or years to finish and the details are amazing. They're built with teak, gold, iridescent beetle wings, and gems. Once again no cameras were allowed. Some stuff can be found online.

Day 1: IT Square

Fun Fact: "Bangkok" in Thai is Krung Thep (กรุงเทพ), which is something like 'city of angels'. However, that's just a short name for it.

Bangkok's full name is: กรุงเทพมหานคร อมรรัตนโกสินทร์ มหินทรายุธยามหาดิลก ภพนพรัตน์ ราชธานีบุรีรมย์ อุดมราชนิเวศน์ มหาสถาน อมรพิมาน อวตารสถิต สักกะทัตติยะ วิษณุกรรมประสิทธิ์.

Spoken, it sounds like: 'Krung Thep Mahanakhon Amon Rattanakosin Mahinthara Ayuthaya Mahadilok Phop Noppharat Ratchathani Burirom Udomratchaniwet Mahasathan Amon Piman Awatan Sathit Sakkathattiya Witsanukam Prasit'.

Or, in English: "The city of angels, the great city, the residence of the Emerald Buddha, the impregnable city (of Ayutthaya) of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous Royal Palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated god, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn."




This is the longest name for a place in the world. 'Bangkok' fits more nicely on a mailing envelope, though.

Source

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In my last entry I linked to two albums (Thai 1 and 2) on Facebook that are open to everyone to see. As I write this there are now five Thai albums and several videos. These cover the first weekend with something like 200+ pics.

Day 1: Having arrived at 12am Saturday, the rest of the day was reserved for recovery. I didn't end up suffering from jet lag as by the end of a 30 hour journey I wasn't sure when or where I was anyway. We met for breakfast at 8 am (provided daily at the accommodations) and discussed plans for the week. The breakfast is sort of Thai, with the occasional rice soup or exotic fruit, but more American styled. Our advisor told us that Thai breakfasts are much different.

At 11 am we met the ThaiROP students from MIT, essentially on the same schedule as us and also delayed from 10 weeks down to 2 weeks by the civil unrest. From there we met some of the graduate students that a few of us would be working with. We went to IT Square Mall which is a five minute walk down the street. I don't have too many pictures of IT Square yet since we go there all the time. It'll take a lot to capture all the sites and sounds of IT Square which, combined with CRI campus, forms the whole of our fishbowl-like awareness of this huge city. We bought a wide variety of exotic fruits and tried them out. I didn't particularly think they were too strong in flavor but they did provide new tastes and textures that you don't find in the West. The rest of the day was spent resting and exploring IT Square a second time.